Here is a very interesting address located at a 7-minutes walking distance from the hotel Etats-Unis Opera, for those who love truffles, a "sunny kitchen", and the wine of Provence.
Truffle Bar is what you read as your push through the door to find a rustic room in a building in the 18th district. The cook works in front of clients. Padded benches, comfortable tables, natural stone walls, and a curious Templar cross. The atmosphere is muffled and soft music can be heard in the background.
The Commanderie de Peyrassol was founded in the thirteenth century in Provence by the order of the Knights Templar, hence the cross. Today, the estate covers 950 hectares, 100 of which are devoted to a wine business that started in 1256. The Commanderie de Peyrassol is also a collection of monumental works of art exposed in the heart of the vines. In short, a highly-recommended stop if you're passing through Provence.
The estate produces white and red wines as well as exceptional rosé wines that offer a very interesting mix of tastes with the Mediterranean truffle dishes on the menu. We chose a Château Peyrassol made of of Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Ugni Blanc, and Rolle grapes. It is a very sublte rosé with notes of citrus, peach, apricot, and flowers.
Depending on the season, the house offers several varieties of truffles and you will sometimes have to make a choice when ordering:
- In winter, you can taste the French truffle, harvested from mid-November to mid-March mainly in the south-east of France as well as the winter truffle, which grows in the same areas and is harvested at the same time as the French truffle. Its veins are wider and clearer and it has a garlicky smell, though less taste.
- In summer, you are offered the summer truffle, also called the truffle of Saint John, whose origin is Italian but it is also a French truffle grown in Australia.
In Autumn, it is mainly the burgundy truffle that is produced in Burgundy from mid-September to January.
French truffle and winter truffle
The truffle has a subtle taste of truffle essential oils which are often used in restaurants. These are synthetic flavors that are powerful and long-lasting in the mouth, but who subtlety is not that of a true truffle flavor. So the taste of truffle dishes at Un Jour A Peyrassol is more discreet and opens up more at the end.
We start with a burrata whose maturity has been perfectly mastered. The dough is fat, creamy, slightly sour, and smooth on the outside but firm on the inside. It's remarkable. The harmony with the toast, truffle, and rosé wine is really superb.
We tasted the fresh tagliatelle, olive oil from the commanderie, and minced truffles. It's almost too generous in tagliatelle. The dish is quite delicate and subtle. Take your time when eating to really enjoy it.
The risotto is very creamy and delicate, with a long-lasting taste in the mouth. It can be accompanied by Jean-Luc Poujauran's excellent bread.
You can also opt for the truffle carpaccio that fits quite well with the southern image of dishes served here, more assembled than transformed, made of quality products (€39 - €28 for lunch).
Finally, perfection is awarded to a dish often served and often missed: the crème brulée. The temperature stays at its core, the enamel caramel is thick, the cream is firm, the vanilla is present, and the truffle is the last taste offered.
UN JOUR A PEYRASSOL
38 rue Vivienne – 75002 Paris
From Monday to Saturday, 12:30 to 2:00 pm and 7:30 to 10:00 pm
La commanderie de Peyrassol : https://www.peyrassol.com/